Fish and chip fever batters South Africa

Fish and Chips general store in Soweto, South Africa. Photograph: Jon Hicks/Corbis

There may be something very British about the local chippie, but that doesn't mean it can't be successful overseas.

Fish and chip shops are spreading fast in South Africa and visibly booming. The Old Fashioned Fish and Chips chain, which claims to have got in first, doubled its reach last year and plans to keep expanding.

Others are joining the craze and hoping to trade on Britain's global reputation for crispy batter and golden chips.

Shop signs for the Fish and Chip Company carry the slogan "Traditional English-style food" and a logo of a fish wearing a top hat and waving a union flag.

The meals, costing ?2-?3, are up against South Africans' usual favourites ? biltong, bobotie, boerewors (spicy sausage), bunny chow, mopane worms and pap (porridge made from maize meal).

Fish and chips are not new here, said Nicolas de Sousa, operations and marketing director of Old Fashioned Fish and Chips. Cape Town has more of a tradition, but in Johannesburg as elsewhere in the republic, the food would typically be sold from corner cafes along with other foods.

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"South Africa doesn't have a direct tradition of fish and chips like Britain," said De Sousa, 29. "It had the corner street cafe that sold everything, including fish and chips. It wasn't a core product.."

He and his mother created a franchise in 2005 and the business grew rapidly, to 300 outlets with revenues of 250m rand (?20m).

Initially De Sousa believed the product would appeal to lower-income groups but admitted he was surprised by the popularity of fish and chips across the social spectrum. "As time has gone on, the target market has increased," he said.

South Africa already has the London Pie Co, complete with pictures of Big Ben, but De Sousa denied being influenced by the classic British chippie. "The product was South African-based. A lot of British shops start with cod but we stuck with hake. South Africans like soft chips."

In what might appear a case of coals to Newcastle, Old Fashioned Fish and Chips is hoping to open shops in Britain by 2014.

"I lived in Britain for six or seven years and was always a fan of fish and chips. But I think they lack creativity," De Sousa said.

"Harry Ramsden's could do it differently. Playing the batter is part of our success. If we take it to Britain, I think we'll have success based on that."

South Africa is the third fattest nation in the world, according to a recent survey, but De Sousa does not believe he is contributing to the obesity epidemic.

"The main thing is it's organic. We use fresh hake, sausages and potatoes. Although it's deep fried, the appeal to the health conscious has a massive role to play. There isn't one product that isn't organic."

On a recent afternoon there was high demand at the Old Fashioned Fish and Chips shop in the Campus Square mall in Johannesburg. Big portions with fat chips and lashings of salt and vinegar were wrapped in white paper and handed to hungry customers, who sat and consumed them on rudimentary blue-painted benches.

Customer Busi Makhubo, 21, said: "It's very convenient and affordable. There are a lot of chips compared to other places.

"I've never been to Britain and don't know what they eat there. These fish and chips are like in the township. In Soweto these shops are packed with black people."

Her mother, Phindi, 50, was less impressed: "They should put it on a plate. People are eating like dogs on a street. And all the sauces are wrong."

Source: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/jan/02/fish-and-chips-south-africa

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